The coat is one of those things that should not be missing in anyone's wardrobe, absolutely anyone! Our focus now is on the women's long coat, but we also love the men's one. Rest assured.
With our friend Veronica we toured a bit around our city (Brescia) and our places with the iconic T38 by T-Coat. An all-Italian company that makes artisanal and sartorial quality a unique credo.
Let's start by saying that we love it and the long coat is a versatile and timeless piece.The women’s coat has its origins in 19th-century France. In the early 19th century, the Corriere delle Dame, an Italian fashion magazine, first spoke of the douillette, a comfortable coat with simple and sober dressing gown lines made of silk with fur padding, to be worn as an alternative to the classic capes. It is not difficult to imagine that, given the quality of the materials, this garment was reserved for upper-middle-class ladies.
We can therefore say that the douillette was the ancestor of the women's coat as we imagine it today; however, for the women's coat to become a popular garment, following the line of the men's ones, we have to wait for the First World War.
As often happens, it is military campaigns that inspire the style of the era: army uniforms over time have greatly influenced men's and women's clothing. From the second half of the 19th century to the early 20th century, women’s outerwear was still quite different from what we wear today. It was ankle-length with wide sleeves and decorative trim; examples include the dolman (inspired by Turkish men’s outerwear), the duster (which had the function of keeping clothes dusty during car trips) and the Cossack coat (inspired by Russian soldiers).
The First World War was like a watershed: all women, from the poorest to those from good families, were employed in productive activities and social support and this favored a simplification of the lines of the models for outerwear: the coats were made more comfortable and functional, shortening their length and removing the various decorations.
We are thus in the 1920s, when what is considered the classic coat began to spread: a masculine style, essential, warm and functional, with the aim of promoting freedom of movement. From the 1950s onwards, silhouettes became more feminine: it was Christian Dior, among other things, who launched the fashion for what became the manteaux, voluminous and enveloping outerwear, with wide and flared lines.
The 60s saw the novelty of mini-coats, with a trapeze cut that reached just above the knee, while the 70s were the explosion of unisex: on the catwalks you could see midi and maxi coats, trench coats, blousons and jackets.
This brings us to the 80s, in which thanks to Max Mara the classic double-breasted camel-colored coat in wool and cashmere spread and became trendy. From that moment on, the coat became a must-have for the winter season and the protagonist of the catwalks, just like today.
We have seen how the coat has undergone many influences and changes throughout history; this is true not only for the style but also for the materials used. Before the advent of synthetic fibers, wool and cashmere, cotton gabardine and, in some cases, silk and fur were used. With the discovery and spread of polyester and nylon, unfortunately it is increasingly difficult to find coats made of 100% natural fibers in stores. Fortunately, in recent years, awareness and interest in garments that are sustainable and long-lasting is becoming more widespread, and consequently the search for well-made and quality garments is increasing.
The attention to fabrics and the current trends of oversized models has also favored the return of vintage and second-hand garments: for example, those who do not have at home many clothes, including outerwear and coats, from their grandmothers that were made in tailoring.
Coming to us, Veronica walks with the T38 by T-Coat. Oversized quilted coat with contrasting stitching. Too cool (like the 80s paninari would say). The large pockets on the front and the shirt-style collar make it stylish, the buttons magically disappear.
Time to drink a Pirlo (don't call it a spritz, thanks) and we wandered around the streets of the center.
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